Day 21

Distance Covered: 105 miles

Total Distance Covered: 3897 miles

Arriving in Atyrau relatively early we parked up and went looking for a way to register our visa’s in Kazakhstan. A quick re-stock before hand and we roamed the city, asked in hotels where to register and roamed some more in search of the what seemed non existent immigration office, finally we came across a travel agents who helped us and directed us to the right place, on getting there however we were turned away! On going back to the travel agents on what felt like the other side of town they made a few phone calls and wrote things down on post’its for us to show to the official. This time we had more luck, after waiting around for roughly an hour we eventually haggled the price down from USD$ 100 to the equivalent of roughly £4. Glad to leave the city we grabbed some Mince on the way out of town, stopped again in the middle of nowhere and set up camp next to the dry bed of what until recently had been a lake. Braving the huge spider webs and potential scorpions we ventured out to the salt flats for a kick-about. After a good look around we headed back to the camp to prepare the burgers and have a BBQ. At around 1ish some ranger looking types turned up and tried to converse, on realising this was futile they had a good laugh (probably at our expense), took pictures of our number plates and left. Not knowing quite what that was about we settled in for the night.